I heard Warthog moving and thought, “Oh no… not yet.” Some things never change. Even on summit day I don’t want to get up when I’m supposed to. Despite my preference to stay sleeping for a while, I started moving. We broke down camp quietly and methodically. I felt like we were preparing for a mission. It similar to how I feel while getting ready to photograph a wedding. You are checking and double checking that you have all of the essentials and the rest is appropriately packed. While Jenny and I packed down the tent, Warthog made our breakfast. I ate mine first, then Jenny, then Warthog. It was the normal Carnation Breakfast Essentials. He added coffee to his and Jenny’s. I can’t drink caffeine, so I have to drink breakfast first. Before I knew it, we had everything packed up and ready to go. At 2:30a we were walking our extra gear over to the ranger’s station where we would leave it on the porch until after we’ve come off the mountain. According to plan, Snow Monkey and Wonder Woman met us at the station holding their extra gear too.
At 2:40a we were walking into the woods. Another unmanned trail register asked us to sign in, including start time and the trail we plan to come down on. This lets the rangers know where they should be looking should they need to start a search for a hiker. I was relieved to see that we were the first ones to sign in this morning. Sunrise summits aren’t the normal, but they are regularly done. I don’t mind sharing the summit – in fact, I expected we would. Statistically, on weekends in Baxter 200-300 people summit Katahdin each day. We chose Monday to summit with fewer people. Furthermore, we chose sunrise because it would be magical and hopefully somewhat private. I think it would be special to be up there with just the people that I’m hiking with and not a bunch of random hikers. Judging from the sign-in sheet, we may just get that!
After we signed in, we were off! The air was still really warm this early in the day. I was glad we got started early so we could hike as much as we could in the cool. The stars were out in their full glory tonight. There were several moments where we would all stop as a group, shut off our lamps, and just stare. It was truly fantastic.
Jenny was hiking with us. I was nervous to ask her to night hike because I know how much my own risk of injury increases when we hike through dark. I was worried about taking her out without her being used to having roots and rocks everywhere. When I told her we were talking about going up for sunrise, she got really excited. Her response sealed the deal. We were going up at night. Honestly, this time was so beautiful, I’m glad we hiked some through it. It was the perfect way to start off our last few miles on the trail.
The hike initially took us from the campground and through flat forests. You could hear waterfalls, but couldn’t see them. After a mile or so we started to climb up. Jenny did a good job staying with us. We took breaks when she needed them and breaks when we needed them. But I was surprised at how few breaks she asked for overall. Even when we started climbing up rock scrambles she could kept up.
It only took a little bit before we were up over the tree line and starting our rock scrambles. You could barely make out the mountains ranges around you. We kept looking back to see if there were any headlamps behind us. Every now and then we thought we saw one, but then realized it was a star. We worked as a team to navigate up. There were some metal holds inserted into the rocks to help in more difficult spots. At one point I watched a bat flying up ahead. Then saw the same bat fly out from in between rocks. I’m always a bit worried about snakes hiding in between these rocks. I never even considered bats!
The sky started to lighten as we neared the end of the steeper, rocking incline. Then, as we hit what’s commonly referred to as “Tablelands” (a flatter mile or so right before the summit), dawn began. It was truly otherworldly beautiful. Probably one of the most beautiful mornings on the trail. The clouds we were in floated across the ground, mountain peaks were barely discernible through the white, the sky went from blue to purple, to pink, then orange. The rocks and nearby landscape were painted in each of these colors. It was like walking through a kaleidoscope while someone spun the wheel. Jenny and Warthog commented that it looked like the Scottish Highlands. If that’s true, I’m totally going to Scotland someday. It was so incredible. We all took our time through this section. We were eager for the summit, but still wanted to soak in the beauty that this exact moment was offering.
Just after Tablelands there was a small climb. I really didn’t notice it. All of us were climbing this last bit together and then suddenly I saw a shape through the fog. I shouted out to the rest. We stopped to look. Sure enough, there it was, the famous summit sign. We looked at each other with expressions of excitement, nervousness, and so much more. Realizing this next 100 feet or so was our last of the AT, we weren’t quite ready to keep moving. We gave ourselves a moment for the reality of what was about to happen to soak in. Then, as a group, we stepped forward.
We approached the sign with reverence. There were tears, laughter, moments of speechlessness. It seemed surreal still. But we were here, together, on the top of Katahdin. It was so special to have the mountain top all alone after an incredible morning of hiking. It truly gave us the privacy and space to exist in the experience. We stood for a few minutes taking it all in, touching the sign in awe, and congratulating one another on a job well done.
After a little bit we were ready to take our summit photos – an AT tradition and must do! Snow Monkey and Wonder Woman went first. I got ready with the camera and Warthog used her phone. We knew what we were about to capture for them; the end of one stage of life and the beginning of another. Through the lens we watched our dear friends become engaged and my heart couldn’t have been more full. That was it. I was overwhelmed.
More congratulations were in order. When they came down from the sign I got to have a better look at the ring that Warthog and I took turns carrying up the mountain. It’s hard to hide a surprise in your pack out here. We all know every item our friends are carrying. It took a little creativity and help to sneak this one up.
It was a hard act to follow. But afterwards, Warthog and I got our photo. We didn’t have any big announcement unless you count the fact that we are freaking awesome because we hiked nearly 2,200 miles. Otherwise, it was a plain Jane sort of summit photo. A photo that was filled with a sense of accomplishment and a huge amount of joy. After that, Jenny and I took one together too. She mastered this tough climb. I was so proud of her. She should absolutely feel proud of herself too.
Not quite ready to leave, we all stayed up on top for a while. This was it. The end of our thru-hike. The thing we’ve worked at for over six months. The thing that we’ve planned for years before that even. The thing that we’ve literally sacrificed our bodies to, cried over, smiled at, stood in awe because of, and so much more. This was it. While we avoided moving on, a seaplane flew overhead. It was the perfect send off for Warthog. His personal dream plane doing a flyby just as he completed another personal dream. What a fun way for the AT to say goodbye.
We knew we needed to go. To be honest, I was mostly worried about someone showing up and ruining our magical mojo we had going on. It had been such a beautiful way to end the AT. Before we left, I made a point to photograph our last white blazes. I remember how excited I was to see those when we started. Now I’m leaving their guidance, grateful for how they kept us true to the path. Since the beauty of a thru-hike is you don’t retrace your steps, we were going down the mountain a different way than we came up. As soon as we stepped out onto a blue blaze trail (a side trail), I said to Warthog, “Now, we are just on a day hike.” I was sad, but also a bit relieved to be able to say that.
There is a 1.1 mile long ridge that connects Katahdin to another summit. That ridge is called Knifes Edge. It is narrow and rocky with steep cliffs on either side. A local told us that Baxter is apparently considering making this hike one way since people have fallen and died from it trying to pass another person. This trail would connect us to the summit and final trail we would take down the mountain. I asked Jenny if she felt up to it. She agreed, but wasn’t really sure what she was in for. I was hesitant to keep going. Even when we were quite a ways on the ridge I offered to turn back, but I could see she was determined to see it through. That’s when Jenny got her trail name, “True Courage”. Snow Monkey added finger guns and a “bang” noise to the end. I think it fits. We did all of Knifes Edge but decided to forgo the last obstacle; the “Chimney” – a 200 foot wall you basically climb vertically up on. I know we are all capable of the physical task it would have been. But to be honest, I was tired and ready to get down.
As we came down off of the major peaks, the temperature really started to rise. It was a hot day. Knowing that, I was so happy we got our most physical part of the day over with at night. We came descended Katahdin on an open, boulder filled trail. It was hot. It was 11a or so when I asked to stop for a couple of minutes for lunch. We made our usual tortillas then pressed on. Here we met the father of another thru-hiker. He had dropped the group off earlier this morning and was hiking the opposite way until they all met up. He mentioned his son was in the Air Force and we celebrated! Finally, we met another Air Force man! We have been waiting our whole trail to find one. We’ve seen this guy for the last couple of weeks. We just never got a chance to really talk with him. It seemed like another victory for this last day on the trail. Although, I don’t really know why. Now all I needed was to see a moose! Spoiler alert: it doesn’t happen.
After what seemed like forever, we hit the tree line. I was so thankful too. It cut the sun and cooled us down. Unfortunately, we weren’t even close to the end. It ended up being a much longer hike back down than I anticipated. We were finally coming out around 2p. My mom was there to get a photo. Jenny was hurting, but I figured she would to be. Even still, she owned the climb up, over, and down. I expect a lot from her because I know she’s tough and she totally exceeded my expectations for her first serious backpacking challenge. True Courage – bang!
Snow Monkey and Wonder Woman were out of the woods just before us. Warthog talked to them and they were going to run back to the rangers station to grab everyone’s stuff. We would head into Millinocket to the restaurant to grab a table for us all – there’s a lot to celebrate!
It sounds like we should be moving fast, but all of those things would take atleast an hour until we were eating. We knew we had time, so we stopped by a local store before heading to the restaurant. My mom had noticed prints from a local photographer that she wanted. He has stunning work specializing in moose and landscapes. She picked one out for us, a striking image of Katahdin covered in snow. I can’t wait to have a collection of photos hanging on my wall of this mountain that we’ve been chasing. There are so many incredible memories from this trip. I’m not sure how I’ll be able to choose what to print. But that’s a problem for another day. First we have to celebrate!
We met at Scootic’s, a local place we heard about from several people. We have been planning on a lobster dinner as our treat for a while now. There were three lobsters in that tank when we walked in. When we left the restaurant, it was empty. I opted for just the lobster roll, I took the easy meal. The other three (Warthog, Wonder Woman, and Snow Monkey) battled through their meals, bibs on and all.
It was special to eat with both families at the same table – such a beautiful way to wrap up this adventure surrounded by people you love. While in the restaurant we enjoyed having everyone together, reflected on the last few months, shared stories from both normal life and the trail, visited with one another and when the time came, said our teary goodbyes in the parking lot.
I’ve been saying that it kind of feels like the end of summer camp with our families coming to get us. This seemed especially true as we hugged one another and then got into the back of our parents vehicles. Snow Monkey and Wonder Woman left first. Warthog and I stood out in the parking lot waving until we couldn’t see them anymore. Our friends left. People that we’ve been with basically 24/7 for the last 2,000 miles are gone. I’m not going to lie, it was a difficult moment. If only I could have kept both them and my family, everything would have been just right. But real life continues and there are jobs and obligations to return to. Not for Warthog and I just yet, thank goodness. But for Wonder Woman and Snow Monkey, real life is literally just days away. I don’t envy them.
Us? We went back into the woods… deep into the woods. My mom and sister rented a cabin about an hour outside of Millinocket. They thought it was closer than it was, it was pretty far back. Honestly, it ended up being perfect. We walked out of the van and into the night air. The noise of the forest surrounded us. I sighed and said to Warthog, “I’m glad we are here and not in the city.” It meant I could still breathe.
We showered, washing off the last dirt from the trail. Well, except the dirt stuck to my toenails. That can stay a little I guess. Then we recouped. It didn’t take long though for us to turn in for bed. It had been a big day. You know, the kind of day when you fully realize a life goal you’ve been working towards for 2.5 to 3 years. Have I mentioned how awesome we are? Oh we are. But a reminder, there are so many people I know who are equally awesome. Both here and at home.
I just hope that our achievement, our story inspires someone to go after their dreams the same way Warthog and I were inspired a few years ago by the thru-hikers we met in Shenandoah. That’s part of the reason I share this journal so publicly. There are lyrics in a song I love that go, “May our stories catch fire and burn bright enough to catch God’s eye … Like fireworks we fall pull apart the dark.” Our stories make a difference. Therefore, they are not our own. To keep our stories to ourselves is withholding knowledge and wisdom from others. Regardless if our stories are of good, bad, victory, humiliation, or mediocrity, there are things to be learned from them. Things others may learn. Darkness is the lack of understanding. Knowledge and wisdom pull it apart. Share your story. And when you do, may it burn bright.
-ansel