We got up at 7:30a and left about an hour later. We had a short day planned; just a few miles to Clingman’s Dome and then a few mile beyond that. 7 or 8 in total. It was either that or 14 and we weren’t ready for 14 yet. But really, the hiking today wasn’t nearly as challenging as I expected. Now that I’ve written that, tomorrow will be.
So… Clingmans Dome was not what I was picturing. I had been thinking of a different point on the trail, one where a rock formation comes way out of the side of a mountain. Everyone takes their photo on that thing. Clingmans was much less wild and much more built for visitors. It was still great to get there and know you were at the tallest point in America on this side of the Rockies. However, Ben and I were a bit overwhelmed by the sea of people there. The tower is wheelchair accessible and is an easy walk from the parking lot. We had a lot of people stopping and asking us questions about thru-hiking. They were very interested and very kind. Another couple, Snow Monkey and Bullseye, had a different experience. They said they had families pulling their kids in close, like they were mountain people about to run off with a child.
The view from Clingmans was pretty. But to be honest, we have had much nicer views from our mountain tops along the way. It made me feel spoiled by the AT – something I doubt I’ll say that too much. I may be getting formed by the AT, but it doesn’t feel like I’m being spoiled. More like the AT is a stern coach saying, “No, you can’t give up now … 6 more miles.” Or, “You want flat spots? How about 3 miles of all uphill climbs.” Or, “C’mon now – through the rain and wind, it’ll make you stronger.” It does. It makes you stronger. I can feel my body strengthening. When we were in Fontana, I could feel that my calf muscle had more to it. A hiker we were talking to last night said that we were still “evolving”. He said he’d heard that it takes a month before your body turns into a hikers body; soles and muscles hardened. We are at day 22 now. A week and a half to go. I would greatly like to feel strong and sure of myself.
The path today took us through lush forests with moss and evergreens painting green everywhere. Occasionally the sun filtered through the canvas and rays of light would pour in, highlighting whatever lucky plant it fell upon.
Not all of today was as beautiful as that forest though. After we left Clingmans, we decided to continue down the trail rather than go the .6 to the parking lot to “take advantage” of the vault toilets and throw out trash. Bad decision. Just a mile down things started getting extremely urgent and we still had 3 or 4 miles until the shelter with the privy. I tried to settle myself, but no luck. Finally, I realized that I would have to give in and it was going to be the forest (my first time yet on this hike). So we dove into the woods which were luckily plush with greenery and with great speed my dear Ben dug me a hole and just in time too. The only good thing to result from this escapade was that I could be comfortable again. It is embarrassing to be reduced to an animal in the woods. That’s what I was. A fact made even more true because you have to cover it back up … you know, like a cat does.
Afterwards, I could focus on finishing our mileage for the day. We hiked a bit more and then took a break for lunch. The trail was running right alongside a road and there was a parking lot across from us. Since there were no logs nearby, we crossed and ate on the curb. I’m sure we looked dirty and sad. Some generous soul took pity on us and offered us an unopened bottle of water. We knew we had a bit until our next water source and we happily accepted.
The last few miles went by surprisingly fast. When we got the spot on the trail where the sign pointed down the to shelter it said, “.5 miles”. Dang it. Another half of a mile. There was a hiker (his name is Kirby) there who had been eating his lunch for the last 20 minutes. He needed water and was trying to decide if the extra mile round trip was worth it. We only drank a bit of that gifted water and offered the rest to him. He took it, asked if we had herpes (we do not), and then was relieved to be able to go on. An extra mile averted. We would be able to get water at the shelter so it felt good to be in the position to help him.
We arrived to camp crazy early, like 3p. But if we were to keep going to the next shelter, it would be a 7p or later arrival. We should still be exiting the Smokies a day earlier than planned, so we took an early turn in. We couldn’t set up camp yet though. We had to make sure the shelter would be full. We avoid sleeping in shelters because I’m pretty sure I’d get kicked out in the middle of the night. Finally more hikers came in and took up the space, so we set up camp, brushed our teeth, and soon will go to bed. We only hiked 7.8 today and are at Mount Collins shelter.
Above is “BR”. He has a big personality and is crazy funny!! I listened to Ben talking to him while he took his photo. It had me dying from laughter.
– ansel